Dayton Open Power Relay Diagram Rv Generator

Topic: Transfer Switch Cross Reference Info!
Posted By: BoatCop on 10/04/09 02:40pm I just replaced my transfer Switch. According to the label on my electrical box, the transfer switch relay called for is:

DAYTON 5X847-M

I had a heck of a time finding one, but eventually did. The switch was available from Grainger, but they only sell wholesale, not to the public.

I "won" a replacement on Ebay. TWICE! But both times the supplier(s) didn't have them and canceled the sale.

I finally found a replacement at Sullivan RV, for $66 plus shipping. However, the one shipped is a 5X847-N, which I was told is a new generation of the M model.

After changing the relay out, come to find out the switch installed was a:

Magnecraft W199AX-14

I found the Magnecraft all over the place at $22-$26.

Configuration (appearance) is identical, however in looking at the specs the Dayton is rated for 30 AMPs and the Magnecraft is rated at 40 amps. Other performance specs are identical.

I wonder if the failure of the Magnecraft switch was due to the higher amp rating than what was called for by the electrical box manufacturer?

In any event, the Magnecraft looks like a direct replacement (Except for amp rating) for the Dayton, and is 1/3 the cost.

It appears that this style of transfer switch was used almost exclusively on Fleetwood MHs, so there's probably thousands of coaches out there running them.

This info may help someone find one, if needed.


Alan
BoatCop
1999 Southwind 34L
2013 Chevy Tahoe
2001 Jeep Wrangler TJ (TOAD)
Sampson (The Bloodhound)
Delilah (The Basset)

Posted By: enblethen on 10/04/09 03:36pm Arcing is the problem with relays. The arc on de-engergizing can be worse then energizing.
I tried to look up specs but didn't find much on the Granger Dayton model. Some relays are rated for motors rather then general purpose. Motor ratedd have harder contacts and are less prone to pitting.
My thinking from the peanut gallery, is why did you not replace the complete unit rather then just the relay. Progressive Dynamics list price for a complete unit is right at $80. You could have other internal problems that caused the relay to fail.
Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow

2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

Posted By: BoatCop on 10/04/09 04:01pm The transfer switch relay was buried behind the DC board in the main power panel. It it's bot a stand-alone unit, in my case.

[image]


Posted By: larry cad on 10/04/09 04:09pm Alan you have asked several questions. First of all, you can buy from Grainger by going to their on-line website.

grainger relay

If you click on that link, you will see that you can buy your relay from Grainger for $34.50. Dayton is a Grainger brand name.

It appears that the relay is rated 30 amps. A 40 amp relay will have bigger contact points and thus would be better not worse, but the 30 amp relay should work fine also, assuming your coach is rated for 30 amps.

BTW, you can also order the Magnecraft relay from Allied, on-line for $22.

Allied Electronics relay

The real question is why yours failed. Did the contacts burn up, or did the relay coil fail? If the contacts burned up, then it could be because you are pulling the shore cord while the breaker is still on and their is a load on the relay. You should always turn off the pedastal breaker before you pull the cord. If the operating coil failed, it could be because of a power surge.

Good luck


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Posted By: BoatCop on 10/04/09 04:10pm

Golden_HVAC wrote:

Hi,

Why would you want the exact same brand and model number relay?

Why not replace it with any relay that has the same number of contacts and amperage rating that is equal to or greater than your need?

So any manufactures single pole double through 50 amp rated relay would have worked, and probably would last twice as long with only 30 amps going through it.

Grainger buys from other manufactures, marks up the price and sells them at retail and wholesale but not with the best prices around for everything.

McMaster Carr was another wholesale place that sells almost everything they can fit into their catalog, and I think they sell retail too.

Good Luck !

Fred.

Call me overly cautious, but if the schematic calls for a specific part number, I'd rather go OEM, instead of one that will fit and wires up the same.

At least that lets me now that it's correct and I don't have to worry about whether it will work satisfactorily or not. Especially in dealing with things that I don't have a whole lot of knowledge about.


Posted By: Golden_HVAC on 10/04/09 03:43pm Hi,

Why would you want the exact same brand and model number relay?

Why not replace it with any relay that has the same number of contacts and amperage rating that is equal to or greater than your need?

So any manufactures single pole double through 50 amp rated relay would have worked, and probably would last twice as long with only 30 amps going through it.

Grainger buys from other manufactures, marks up the price and sells them at retail and wholesale but not with the best prices around for everything.

McMaster Carr was another wholesale place that sells almost everything they can fit into their catalog, and I think they sell retail too.

Good Luck !

Fred.


Posted By: MrWizard on 10/04/09 05:23pm the OEM wiring for mine is the switch is Normally closed and wired for the generator, and turns on/pulls in when connected to shore power, so unplugging when the WH is on or the A/C is on causes the contacts to arc.

after they arc & pit they start sticking, so they stick in the shore position, which seems to be the most common problem with sticky transfer switches


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But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

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Posted By: BoatCop on 10/04/09 04:18pm

larry cad wrote:

Alan you have asked several questions. First of all, you can buy from Grainger by going to their on-line website.

grainger relay

If you click on that link, you will see that you can buy your relay from Grainger for $34.50. Dayton is a Grainger brand name.

It appears that the relay is rated 30 amps. A 40 amp relay will have bigger contact points and thus would be better not worse, but the 30 amp relay should work fine also, assuming your coach is rated for 30 amps.

BTW, you can also order the Magnecraft relay from Allied, on-line for $22.

Allied Electronics relay

The real question is why yours failed. Did the contacts burn up, or did the relay coil fail? If the contacts burned up, then it could be because you are pulling the shore cord while the breaker is still on and their is a load on the relay. You should always turn off the pedastal breaker before you pull the cord. If the operating coil failed, it could be because of a power surge.

Good luck

The contacts were burned. It would switch over from shore to Gen with no problem. But switching from Gen to shore would need a smack on the box to make the connection. So it may have been a combination of weak coil/return spring and scorched contacts.

I always make sure the shore breaker is off and power is secured before pulling or inserting the plug. But I don't know whether the prior owner was as careful.

I tried Grainger, but they needed an account number. I didn't think about McMaster Carr.

Either way, the new one is in and working as designed.


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